Posada La Poza, Todos Santos
   
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Situated on the Pacific Ocean at the Tropic of Cancer between Cabo San Lucas to the south and La Paz to the east lays the sleepy town of Todos Santos. It’s easy to drive right through and barely notice the place.

Once famed for its sugar cane industry controlled by the Santana family at the turn of the century, it became a ghost town once sugar production ceased. For decades Todos Santos was largely ignored until it was rediscovered in the 60’s by a few hippies, some artists seeking solitude and surfers who braved the treacherous journey down the Baja to be rewarded with perfect swells and endless white sand beaches. Dodging the hustle and bustle of Los Cabos, tourists and investors are beginning to discover the quiet, healthy lifestyle that exists here. Bringing upscale tastes with them, the newcomers are slowly transforming the town, sculpting the once bohemian Todos Santos into a serious art colony with quaint boutique hotels serving up fine international cuisine, much of which is prepared from locally-grown organic produce.

 

Just north of the promontory named Punta Lobos, it is here that water flowing from the mountains forms a natural fresh water estuary protected behind the coastal sand dunes. Naming it Posada La Poza, meaning “house of the spring”, this unique coastal wetland provides shelter for over 60 species of migratory seabirds, kingfishers and many rare songbirds. Having found their oasis, Juerg and Libusche arranged to purchase the land and plans were drawn to build a small 7-room boutique hotel. After enduring many setbacks, the restaurant was completed in August 2001 and the hotel was officially opened on February 2, 2002.

In 1998, Juerg Wiesendanger, originally from a Swiss banking background, convinced his wife Libusche to accompany him on a drive down the Baja peninsula. Libusche never really thought much of Mexico before this trip but soon found herself enamored with Baja’s wide-open, cactus strewn deserts and jagged mountain ranges that crashed into a blue sea. Both were fascinated with the richness and variety of the strange looking plants and the ever changing landscapes that appeared around each corner. When they reached Todos Santos with its artsy culture and tropical palm forests cooled by Pacific breezes, Juerg and Libusche fell in love again.

Tired from years of stress in the banking world and possessing an abundance of energy and complimentary skills, Juerg and Libusche set out to explore the possibilities. Having no children and searching for a lifestyle change, they were intent on creating an environment free from stress, TV and bad news. Todos Santos had the right feeling and was ready for something different. Envisioning an intimate retreat blending Mexican style and European accents but run with Swiss efficiency, they soon stumbled upon a unique piece of land at the south end of town on the beach.

Born in Prague, Czechoslovakia Libusche finished her art studies in Switzerland where she met Juerg. Inspired by Mexican color, Libusche combined her style with the unabashedly vibrant expression of color dating back to the Aztecs. Her current work is found in many collections and can be described as “a feminine motif with a man’s hand” expressed in Mexicolor. When asked about what she wants to convey in her work, Libusche replies that she hopes to translate emotions without words and offer a key to a fantasy that will unlock the viewers’ imagination. As more and more guests began to discover the unique charm and relaxing ambiance at La Poza, Libusche moved her studio from town into the hotel where you can enjoy and purchase many of her original works that are displayed on the brightly colored walls of the restaurant, bar and the rooms.

Featuring fine dining surrounded by traditional Mexican décor, the comfortable accommodations are decorated in vivid hues using hand painted tiles, authentic Mexican textiles and tasteful wood accents. All rooms have a private terrace and a view of the gardens, the pool and the estuary. In the mornings, fresh coffee and pastries are served in the garden, allowing plenty of time to wake up slowly to the tranquil rhythms of the oasis environment. A healthy breakfast of Swiss muesli with fresh fruits or egg dishes is included in the restaurant. Lunch and dinner are a real treat as well offering specialties such as pork fillet served with a prune chipotle sauce or fresh seared ahi and sumptuous cuts of beef. Using only the freshest ingredients, Juerg and his young German Chef André are developing a reputation for serving some of the finest non-traditional fare in the region, blending Mexican and European flavors into savory combinations.

The hotel is reached by dirt road just south of the center of town. Follow the blue and white painted signs to the beach and if you get lost, just ask the locals and they can guide you in. It is a trip well worth the adventure of getting there. Be prepared to stay awhile and immerse yourself in the warm, tropical ambiance of La Poza because once you arrive, you’ll find it most difficult to leave.

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